The original Czech Embassy on Massachusetts Avenue. A Spy's Defection Prompts an Embassy's Move was Diplomatica's first feature in 2018.
The founding premise of Diplomatica is that the diplomatic properties in Washington and elsewhere are woven into the fabric of their host cities - their histories, their cultures, their environments - and that by opening their doors, figuratively and at times literally, we remove some of the walls in our community, and can share in the collective abundance that is unique to diplomatic enclaves.
As Diplomatic turns five (and celebrates one year as an LLC), I've been thinking a lot recently about how certain diplomatic properties have been woven into the fabric of my life, personally and professionally.
The Embassy of Finland. An early profile for Washington Diplomat on the building's LEED designation had a profound impact on Diplomatica's future direction.
The first time I ever set foot in an embassy was in 2010. I had just moved to Washington and a neighbor invited me to join her at Passport DC. We started in Dupont, and the first building we stopped at, like so many other people who take that path up Massachusetts Avenue, was the Embassy of Indonesia, the former home of Evalyn Walsh McLean, the last private owner of the Hope Diamond. I didn't know any of this then but "This is What Brings On Revolutions" would be one of the first profiles when Diplomatica launched as a newsletter in 2018. And the story of Evalyn, and her Great Dane Mike, although tragic, is still one of my favorites.
My first article for The Washington Diplomat in 2013 was a review of a new art exhibit at the Mexican Cultural Institute. (Spoiler - I liked it.) Like I have so many times since, I went for one thing, and sidetracked to something else, in this case, the stunning Roberto Cueva del Rio murals that wind, serpentine-like, around the walls of the stairwell in the Nathan Wyeth-designed Beaux Arts mansion on 16th Street.
In 2015, I wrote about the Embassy of Finland's LEED designation, which was my first introduction to the idea that diplomatic properties could (and arguably should) send a message of a country's values with how they build their embassies. I've written about other LEED buildings since, and after revisiting the Finnish Embassy for a story about their Diplomatic Sauna Society, in 2022, I became a LEED Green Associate specifically to be able to advise diplomatic properties on these principles. (Interested in learning how your property can be more sustainable? Drop me a note.)During my years living in Europe, the EU Delegation was a frequent haunt on my visits to Washington and where I met several of my most treasured friends (and was once rescued from a terrible date.) Last year at the EU embassy during Open EU weekend, a volunteer asked me where she should set up a table. Upon learning I wasn't a staff member, she sheepishly apologized and said, "You seem very at home here." It was a lovely compliment.
Embassies of Canada, Tunisia, UK, Ireland, Slovenia and others, are exploring solutions to the pollinator crisis. Although in its early years, Diplomatica primarily told stories of buildings, during pandemic lockdowns, I expanded my focus to the lands that house them. I will shamelessly admit now what was most likely obvious to those involved - I did so primarily to enjoy the wide open spaces many of these embassies hold. Aside from acting as a refuge, this allowed me to report on how different embassies are working to combat the pollinator crisis with various forms of beekeeping, with solutions available for properties of any budget or staff size. It also led to two additional articles, for Smithsonian on how embassies were coping with lockdowns, and for Audubon on how the Swiss Ambassador was turning the embassy grounds into an urban oasis. Thanks to the Embassy of the Netherlands, I was also able to explore the University of the District of Columbia's sustainability initiatives for Ensia.It was during this time that I was also able to report for Parliament Magazine on how the European Liaison office in London needed to transition its mission post-Brexit, and the new San Francisco liaison office opened to create a stronger European presence in Bay Area tech diplomacy.
In 2021, I was the first journalist to learn the Swedish government would be selling their residence. (Which recently sold for $17 million!) Their story of how diplomacy is changing, and why buildings need to change to keep pace, is a model for other embassies.
The view from the roof of the Colombian Ambassador's residence in Dupont Circle.People often ask me which diplomatic property is my favorite and of course I'll never say. Each has its own hidden delights. But I can easily recount which experiences are high on my list; hearing former Czech Ambassador Hynek Kmoníček roar with laughter as he recounted the tale of the spy Tisler, and why the Czech Embassy had to "move to the forest;" climbing a narrow ladder of the attic of the Colombian Ambassador's residence and onto its roof; a chance encounter at Twin Oaks which ensured the Taiwanese property would forever hold a special place in my heart; learning how the purchase of the Algerian ambassador's residence was a protest against Washington's segregated housing covenants; dancing tango at the Embassy of Uruguay; speaking to people at the Embassies of Ukraine and Russia whose lives have been affected by war; how the Tunisian Embassy was built as a science experiment; and others.You can find all of these features and more, as well as our newly redesigned Embassy Calendar, on the new Diplomatica Global website, now in beta. (See something wonky on the site? Please let us know.)
Over the past five years, I've been humbled and delighted by those in my home cities of Washington and San Francisco, as well as New York, Vienna, Salzburg, London, Brussels, and more, who have opened their diplomatic doors to my little newsletter, not knowing that an invitation to "make yourself at home," would be so resoundingly accepted. With permission, I've poked through closets and explored attics, toured a disused greenhouse, wandered through boiler rooms, found hidden passageways, gathered honey, climbed a tree, explored presidential suites, and at every opportunity rifled through libraries. I'm incredibly grateful to the librarians, historians, archivists, architects, urban planners, zoning specialists, arborists, realtors, property developers, intelligence officers, and of course, diplomats, who have patiently answered all of my questions, helped me track down centuries-old building permits, opened their archives, provided me with photographs and first-hand accounts, pointed me to little-known facts, and overall shared their love of these homes with me.
A huge thanks to those who have welcomed Diplomatica, including the Embassies of Algeria, Argentina, Austria, Benin, Botswana, Canada, Colombia, Czech Republic, Egypt, the European Union, Finland, Germany, Greece, Indonesia, Ireland, Latvia, Lebanon, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Netherlands, Pakistan, Poland, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Tunisia, Turkey, United Kingdom, Uruguay, Uzbekistan, as well as the consulates of Austria and Ireland in New York, SwissNex in San Francisco and Boston, and of course, the Taipei Economic and Cultural Office, Salzburg Global Seminar, Meridian International Center, and more.
Diplomatica would also not be possible without those who have provided in-kind, financial, and moral support over the past five years, whether from day one or more recently. I'm so grateful to Tony Culley-Foster, Jan DuPlain, Gene Meyer, Allison Bozniak, Denis Pachas, Ryan Meilak, James Barbour, Cassandra Campbell, Antonella Ciancio, Martin Dahinden, Martin Weiss, Thorsten Eisingerich, Salome Ramseier, Lise Howe, Nan Langen Steketee, Elizabeth Talerman, Neil Wainwright, Andrew Donaldson, Gerry Diaz Bartolome, Christian Gregory, Kelly Hoey, Stuart Holliday and Frank Justice, Stephen Staudigl, Mary Carty, and of course, my CTOs, Josia Sackman and Lenore Barbato. To everyone who donated books, research, money, time, endless coffee, calls or emails of support and encouragement, thank you.
We're five years in but just getting started. Stay tuned for more profiles, more features, new events, and an expanded Embassy Calendar, coming soon.
From my home to yours, thank you for being part of the journey.
Molly McCluskey
Have you ever been curious about tango but too shy to take a class at one of the embassies in town or attend a tango party? You've been missing out on the fascinating history of the dance that's on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, with origins in both Uruguay and Argentina, and loved around the world.
Join Diplomatica for an intimate evening exploring the history of tango in the intimate atmosphere of the members' area of the National Press Club with renowed tango instructor and historian Luis Angel. This is not a class, but an evening of music and conversation, and, for the very brave, a few introductory tango steps. Absolute beginners and those with two left feet welcomed and encouraged.
Born and raised in Argentina, Luis Angel, comes from family of musicians and dancers. He has given tango classes and performances at the Kennedy Center, George Washington University, Georgetown Prep School, Strathmore Music Center, Embassy of Uruguay, Embassy of Argentina, US State Department, US Army, US Navy and many more throughout the US, and around the world. RSVPs required. Limited tickets available.